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PostPosted: Sun Aug 04, 2013 5:34 pm 
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Hand plane is good enough for me.

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PostPosted: Mon Aug 05, 2013 5:07 am 
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Alan Carruth wrote:
If you pull a rectangular brace into a holder with spacers at the ends, and trim it flat, what you get is not a circular arc. It's close, and many consider it 'close enough', but technically....


Is that really the ultimate goal? Are we aiming for and exact radius of a perfect circle. I agree with Jim in that this method creates a really nice fair curve, which IMO is the ultimate goal. I'm personally not aiming to hit an exact arc of a circle and would rather have something a little more fair than perfectly round. Just think this is a nicer feel and a bit more organic than perfect circles. But this has a lot to do with people's method of building as well. And I'm not sure one way is better than the other, just a personal opinion.


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PostPosted: Mon Aug 05, 2013 9:11 am 
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Alan Carruth wrote:
If you pull a rectangular brace into a holder with spacers at the ends, and trim it flat, what you get is not a circular arc. It's close, and many consider it 'close enough', but technically....

Does anyone believe it needs to be a circular arc?

James


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PostPosted: Mon Aug 05, 2013 9:17 am 
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Brazilian Rosewood
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I just use a block plane and plane to a pencil line. It's not complicated. There is no best way really but I think the OP might be asking about another problem here. The radius sanding dish should work just fine. If I understand the OP he is saying that he sands out the radius and then has a left or right tilt on the mating surface so that if the brace is glued it will not be at a right angle to the soundboard or back. The best thing to do when sanding anything on a sanding board is to take a few strokes then flip the work piece around and sand a few more and repeat. This eliminates any systematic error when sanding in one direction over time.


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PostPosted: Mon Aug 05, 2013 12:14 pm 
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jmdlister wrote:
Alan Carruth wrote:
If you pull a rectangular brace into a holder with spacers at the ends, and trim it flat, what you get is not a circular arc. It's close, and many consider it 'close enough', but technically....

Does anyone believe it needs to be a circular arc?

James


Yeah, there's probably someone who believes it. There's lots of people who believe things that aren't true. beehive

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PostPosted: Mon Aug 05, 2013 12:28 pm 
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Tony_in_NYC wrote:
Laser beams.


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+1 :D

Dave F.

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PostPosted: Mon Aug 05, 2013 5:23 pm 
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It seems to me that braces cut to a radius as demonstrated aboce will not fit exactly a radius board if one is used for glue up. The only way to get a brace to fit a radius board is to sand the brace on the board.
Also it seems to me that wherever a brace is sanded it will be the same. It doesnt need to be sanded in position.
Please correct me if I am wrong.


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PostPosted: Mon Aug 05, 2013 6:59 pm 
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AnthonyE wrote:
Alan Carruth wrote:
If you pull a rectangular brace into a holder with spacers at the ends, and trim it flat, what you get is not a circular arc. It's close, and many consider it 'close enough', but technically....


Is that really the ultimate goal? Are we aiming for and exact radius of a perfect circle. I agree with Jim in that this method creates a really nice fair curve, which IMO is the ultimate goal. I'm personally not aiming to hit an exact arc of a circle and would rather have something a little more fair than perfectly round. Just think this is a nicer feel and a bit more organic than perfect circles. But this has a lot to do with people's method of building as well. And I'm not sure one way is better than the other, just a personal opinion.

What you need is a brace that fits the panel with no gaps and gives you your design curvature. One of the main reasons that circles/spheres are used is that any brace will fit perfectly on any panel of that curvature in any position/angle, without having to apply a heap of force. That is not true of, say, parabolic or spline curves. And that single feature can be a major time saver. It's pretty difficult to see on a finished guitar the difference between spherical, parabolic or spline and more difficult (I would contend) to hear it.

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PostPosted: Thu Aug 08, 2013 6:22 pm 
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I use one from Tracy at Luthier Suppliers, a sponsor here. It is basically the same as the one David Ingalls showed. You can pick two radius when you order it.

Works great!!!


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PostPosted: Thu Aug 08, 2013 6:41 pm 
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Dave Fifield wrote:
Tony_in_NYC wrote:
Laser beams.


Sent from my iPhone using Tapatalk 2


+1 :D

Dave F.


I was waiting for you to show up! I had to represent in your absence.


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PostPosted: Thu Aug 08, 2013 6:52 pm 
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One point not mentioned as yet is some folks preference to glue with planed vs sanded surfaces.
Sanding to radius on the dish then a pass with a plane would suffice.
I plane mine to a pencil marked radius per Mario's video - fast and simple on a shooting board.

Rob


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